February 22nd, 2008

Where’s the Thrill in Cheap Shopping?

by Julie Hayes

There was a time, not so long ago, when I would meet my two girlfriends for a fuel injected latte at our favorite chain coffee store for one purpose:  to rev up for a super fun, marathon day of Cheap Thrill Shopping.  The Thrill came from the Cheap and the Cheap came from those less expensive stores we often referred to as members of The Vortex – stores such as say, Forever 21, The Gap, Old Navy, Target and H & M, where you could expect to spend an hour (or two), trying on hundreds of clothes, ogling the low prices, giving the yay or no way to your friends and walking out of there with two giant bags full of clothes that cost you less than your cable bill.  

But things have changed.  It’s a new time, a socially and environmentally conscious time.  And that’s really good and honestly, what it should be. But the downside is that the Thrill isn’t so thrilling anymore.  In the “olden days,” it was easy – just stay away from WalMart and Kathy Lee Gifford and you were good.  But my raised consciousness has brought me to a whole new level of awareness that has made it next to impossible to enjoy shopping anymore.  Where I used to get excited by a price tag that read $19.95, I now get depressed by a label that reads, “Made In China.” It’s on every item, in almost every store.  And now that I think I know what that label really means, I can never again shop with the sort of careless glee I once had. 

So what do you do if you are a not-rich-yet, conscious person who cares about the environment and social justice, who loves to shop without breaking the bank but can’t stand feeling like a big ol’ hypocrite?   

Research. Or so I thought. But as it turns out, like almost everything in this new world of green and social consciousness, there are so few standards by which to measure who is good and who is not that it makes it next to impossible to find the truth.  It’s all a gradation of grey.  Some dark grey, some light grey and some darker or lighter than others.  After Googling myself to death, it became clear to me that I couldn’t find out all the information I was seeking from one angle and maybe I had to broaden my approach by looking at it a couple of different ways.  The first one being… 

Who’s been nailed. 

It appears that of the larger, chain companies, the ones who have been “outed” in the past five years for social or environmental violations have better than average standard practices at this point.  Take Nike for example.  After facing constant accusations regarding human rights and conditions for workers in developing countries, Nike now has a well developed focus for its corporate responsibility on improving conditions in contracted factories, aiming for carbon neutrality and making sports available to young people (girls in particular) across the world.   In other words, they got in trouble so they got their act together.  And, if the company continues to be successful, they will continue to be a target and will most like have to continue to work hard to be a positive example of how business should be done. 

So here’s the skinny on some of my old faves.

The Gap Inc. (Includes Baby Gap, Old Navy and Banana Republic)

  + 2003 – The Gap Inc. was involved in a class action lawsuit filed by sweatshop workers in
Saipan. The allegations included workers not being paid for overtime, unsafe conditions, and forced abortion policies. 
  + 2007 – Gap Inc. is evaluated as one of the 100 “Most Ethical Companies” by Ethisphere Magazine, a leading, world wide publication that studies the ethical business practices of global companies.   Gap was also ranked 25^th by CRO Magazine on it’s “100 Best Corporate Citizens” list.
  + Then, on October 28, 2007, BBC outs a Gap factory in
India, airing video of children working in one of their factories.  Gap denies knowledge of this violation and vows to investigate and stop such practices. 

You can bet they are probably more aware and behaving better than ever at this point.

Forever 21

  + 2001 – Factory workers called for a store boycott until working conditions and payroll are improved.  Forever 21 agrees to pay back wages and the lawsuit was dropped.
  + 2004 – Forever 21 agrees to cease selling clothes featuring animal fur after being targeted by PETA.
  + On-Going - High profile designers file lawsuits against Forever 21 for ripping off designs.  Designers include: Diane von Fürstenburg, Gwen Stefani, Anna Sui and most recently, Anthropology.
+ December 2004 – The Garment Workers Center, Sweatshop Watch and the Asian Pacific American Legal Center reach an agreement with Forever 21 on behalf of garment workers.  All remain committed to ensuring that the clothing Forever 21 sells in its stores is made under lawful conditions.

So while it appears Forever 21 may have reached acceptable levels of social consciousness and they do manufacture a portion of their clothing in Los Angeles, they are infamous design thieves and a big question mark when it comes to their environmental practices.

Target Corporation

Okay, some have been nailed and learned from their mistakes and some have not and look pretty good but the details are fuzzy and hard to pin down. Welcome to Target. In April of 2000, Target received the Minnesota Environmental Initiative Award for it’s environmental program. The store has since gained notoriety for extensive community outreach and charitable giving and states impressive social and environmental principles on it’s website. However, there is little previous info available for consumers to evaluate the company’s progress or effectiveness in these areas And let’s face it, any store that takes up that much space can’t be all that great for the environment. Yet, overall, it seems the cuter, cleaner version of WalMart isn’t as bad as we thought it might be and in fact, has signed an agreement with National Retail Federation’s “Statement of Principles on Supplier Legal Compliance,” (translation: commitment to high ethical standards and has stated that they will continue providing environmentally friendly goods that meet customers needs. I recently bought pajama bottoms there and found, when I got home, that they were made from organic cotton!

H & M

Okay, here we go, we have a winner!!! It seems that the Swedish based company has a long history of positive social and environmental practices. Yay! H & M’s Code of Conduct states, “…it’s suppliers must comply with all relevant environmental legislation. In practice, the requirements cover the handling of chemicals, waste management and waste-water treatment.” In January of 2008, an international branding and business think-tank, The Medinge Group, released its fifth annual Brands with a Conscience list and H & M is in the top eight. The goal of the organization is to show that it is possible for very successful, high profile brands to practice business in sustainable, socially responsible and humanistic ways while continuing to build profits.  Not for nothing but skincare giant Aveda also made this list. H & M has also started selling a few organic cotton items for men and women so there’s hope in that department too. The worst thing I could find on H & M was a resistance to their US, in-store workers all forming a union but they are apparently open to talking about it.

SO WHAT’S THE VERDICT?

Things are getting better but they’re certainly not even close to perfect. The best choice is still clothing made by local manufacturers in organic or sustainable materials. And there are hundreds of green clothing manufacturers now in this exploding field, many of them you can find right here in our green clothing section. And for those who still need to get their shopping thrills from finding a bargain, there’s always vintage! Just think how much amazing pre-loved fashion there is out there, just waiting for you! Read our earlier piece on finding vintage and used clothing near you so you can get the deal of a lifetime and still feel great about yourself!

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February 21st, 2008

Greenest Cars of 2008 from ACEEE

by Jessica Jensen

The ACEEE (the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy) has released their annual Green Book for 2008 which scores cars on their environmental friendliness. They give a green score for every model and select both the “greenest” and the “meanest” vehicles. It’s a very useful consumer guide to lowering your contribution to global warming via smart auto choices.

The Greenest Cars for 2008

Think the Prius wins? Think again. For the fifth year in a row, the Honda Civic GX is the overall winner with a green score of 57. This is a natural gas vehicle and gets 24 MPG in the city and 36 on the freeway. It’s MPG may be lower than its hybrid counterparts, but because it is a natural gas vehicle, it has super low emissions.

The Toyota Prius wins 2nd place with a green score of 53, and 48 MPG in the city and 45 on the freeway. Honda garners two out of the top three, with its Honda Civic Hybrid coming in 3rd place. The Civic is strong but doesn’t quite match the Prius on the mileage front: it gets 40 MPG in the city and 45 on the highway.

Number four is the zippy convertible Smart Car. The Smart Fortwo gets 33 MPG in the city and 41 on the freeway.  You’ll look swanky in it and it starts at under $14,000! 5th place goes to the Toyota Yaris, which is also reasonably priced at less than $13,000. It gets 29 MPG in the city and 36 on the freeway.

To see more of the greenest cars, click here.

The Meanest Cars for 2008

Now the fun part— naming the worst offenders! The worst of the eco-worst is the Volkswagen Touareg, with a green score of 14. It gets 15 MPG in the city and 20 on the highway. Yes, it is actually worse than a Hummer– in fact the Hummer is the 10th worst with a score of 18 (but don’t think that means it’s okay to buy one!!).

Several Mercedes models are in the bottom ten: the GL320 is number 3, the ML320 is number 8 and the G55 AMG is number 9. The Jeep Grand Cherokee is the 4th worst, with 17 MPG in the city and 22 MPG on the freeway. The GMC Yukon is the 11th worst and gets 12 MPG in the city and 16 on the freeway.

In case you were thinking of putting down the clams for a Bentley, let us assure you that you’ll be an eco-foe. The Bentley Azure and the Arnage both get 9 (NINE!!!) MPG in the city and 15 on the freeway. You may look cool, but you’ll really be a fool.

To see the rest of the worst, click here.

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February 20th, 2008

Get Green with Organic Gardening

by Jessica Jensen

Today we are joined by Christy Wilhelmi, who is the driving force behind Gardenerd.com, a wonderful resource for gardeners. Her obsession with gardening began in 1996 on the balcony of her Los Angeles apartment. She is a member of Ocean View Farms Organic Community Garden in Mar Vista, California and has served on the Board of Directors for the last 8 years. She has dedicated herself to the study of organic gardening and its benefits, and delights in sharing this information with anyone who will listen. Today she educates on the joys and environmental benefits of organic gardening. Be sure to read to the end to learn about her gardening classes!

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We live in a world where most people don’t know where their food comes from. It’s not uncommon to find folks who don’t know the answer when asked where peanuts or potatoes grow (both grow underground). There’s nothing wrong with not knowing, except that by not knowing, we often make choices that don’t serve the planet or our bodies. Organic gardening changes all that.

Once you get into organic gardening, there’s no going back. Suddenly another world of awareness opens up. You’ve heard about buying organic, buying locally grown foods and using non-toxic cleaners in your home. Extending those concepts out into the yard goes a step further. Let me tell you what I mean.

Locavores Unite: You just can’t get more “local” than eating food grown in your own back yard or on your patio. You also can’t get food fresher than that. No truck needed.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle: What doesn’t get eaten gets composted, and becomes food for your garden, or your worms (if you have a worm bin). And when you grow something yourself, you’re less likely to waste it. A new appreciation for broccoli stems has been known to happen.

Biodiversity Rules: In the grand scheme of things, our modern grocery industry provides us with a total average of 27 fruits and vegetables. Every store carries the same variety of melon or tomato or what have you. With over 300 varieties of tomatoes alone available to the home gardener, you can help provide diversity for pollinators (insects) and humans alike.

Get Off Petroleum: Chemical fertilizers and pesticides are some of the biggest polluters in the world, in more ways than one. Not only do they leach down into the soil and contaminate our waterways, they also are made by using petroleum. And the U.S. is the number one importer of fertilizers in the world. It takes a little learning to know what’s organic and what’s not (especially these days with the loosening of organic standards by our government), but it’s totally worth the investment of time in the end. To find some good organic fertilizers, click here.

Grow Your Soul: This might sound crazy, but there nothing like a good weeding session in the garden to work out all your frustrations, develop inventions, and most of all, feel connected to the earth.  Gandhi said, “To forget how to dig the earth and to tend the soil is to forget ourselves.”  When we think about how often we walk the earth without ever touching it, the comforting thought that a solution lies in the soil, right outside our door (or in that pot), is a saving grace for all of us.

Whether you grow organic food or flowers (another industry tainted by chemical pesticides and fertilizers) you are stepping forward lightly upon the earth. It’s one more way to close the loop and promote a better future for plants, insects, soil, and humankind.
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To learn more about organic gardening, why not take one of Christy’s classes?

The Gardenerd Organic Gardening Series

Finally there is a set of basic organic gardening classes that is suitable for both the beginning gardener and the veteran gardener who wants to learn organic methods. Christy Wilhelmi of Gardenerd.com will be covering the following topics:

   +  Soil, Soil amendments and Fertilizers

   +  Small space and Container Gardening

   +  Seed-starting, Transplants and Heirlooms

   +  Pruning, Tools and Tool Care

 

Classes begin February 23, 2008.  Details about upcoming classes and registration can be found at http://www.gardenerd.com/classpay.html.  Space is limited and registration is required. Visit www.Gardenerd.com for more tips and tidbits about organic gardening.

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February 18th, 2008

How-To Tuesday: Install a Programmable Thermostat

by Jason Pelletier, Low Impact Living

Installing a programmable thermostat is one of the most cost-effective ways to save energy and to cut your carbon footprint. In many parts of the country they can cut your energy bills by $100 or more a year, and as a result pay for themselves in your first heating or cooling season. They save on both heating and cooling, so there’s never a wrong time to consider an upgrade.

What are the benefits?

Programmable thermostats save energy and money in several ways. First, they automatically adjust your home’s temperature so that you aren’t over-heating (or cooling) when you’re away from home or asleep. The savings are greatest when there’s no-one home during the day and you can lower the temperature, but they’ll still save at night even if someone is at home. Second, certain models can operate your furnace in ways that maximize efficiency. Finally, some models notify you when your furnace filters need replacing, or when there are malfunctions with your furnace.

Can I Do It Myself?

First, before we get started, this is only a DIY project if you’re comfortable working with electrical wiring and can do so safely. If you have any concerns at all, it’s best to leave it to a professional!

To Do Before Buying a New Thermostat

Before you buy a thermostat, it’s important to know what type you’ll need. So, these quick tips will help you pick the right one.

1. Note what type of heating system you have (boiler, furnace, radiant heating, etc), and what the fuel is (natural gas, electricity, heating oil, etc).
2. Turn off the power to your thermostat at the circuit breaker.
3. Remove your existing thermostat, and investigate how many wires are connected to the back. There could be anywhere between 2 and 10. Don’t disconnect them yet! Also, most thermostats are low-voltage and will have small wires. If you have electric resistance heating (baseboard, for example), you might have a line voltage thermostat. This will have heavier wires attached, and the wires will likely be connected in an electrical box behind the thermostat using heavy wire nuts.
4. Purchase a thermostat that meets your needs:
     +  Low or line voltage?
     +  Right number of connecting wires?
     +  Works for heating, cooling or both?
     +  Can be programmed to fit your lifestyle - different program every day (7-day programming), weekday + two weekend day programming (5-1-1 programming) or weekday + weekend only (5-2 programming).

You can see a few versions that we recommend here.

Replacing your existing thermostat

1. Once again, MAKE SURE you’ve turned the breaker for the furnace circuit off at the electrical panel.
2. Unscrew the old thermostat from the wall, but don’t remove the wires yet.
3. Using either masking tape or the labels that come with your new thermostat, write the letter on the old thermostat that the wire corresponds to and place the tape or label around the wire. Make sure that the wires don’t fall into the wall when you remove them.
4. Most thermostats come in two parts, a wall plate that screws onto the wall and the main thermostat unit that plugs into the wall plate. Mount the wall plate to the electrical box that remains from the old thermostat. Pass the wires through the hole in the mounting plate.
5. Connect the wires to the terminals that correspond to the letters on the wires.
6. Install batteries in the new thermostat unit. If your model allows for it, program the date, time and scheduling (based on your model’s instructions) before attaching it to the wall. Otherwise, attach the unit as shown in the instructions and complete the programming. Programming may seem complex to begin with, so make sure you follow the directions closely. With a little practice, though, adjusting the programs will be a snap.
7. Turn the power to the furnace circuit back on at your electrical panel. Test the new thermostat and make sure it operates your HVAC equipment as expected.

That’s it - you’re now well on your way to lower energy bills, a smaller carbon footprint, and a more comfortable home!

I’ve actually found the websites of several big thermostat manufacturers to be very helpful. Honeywell has this entire section for do-it-yourself thermostats. Aube has information about thermostats organized by heating / cooling type. Click on the relevant model using the menu on the left side of the page, and then you can download the installation and operating instructions before you purchase.

Please let us know if you have any additional tips or tricks by leaving comments below.

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February 17th, 2008

Good Green Roofs

by Jason Pelletier, Low Impact Living

You may of heard of green roofs but wondered “How do they work?” or “How can I get one?” We’re here to explain why they are an excellent green building and renovation option, and how you can make one a reality for your green home.

What Is a Green Roof? 

A “green roof” consists of a waterproof membrane put over a rooftop and covered with soil and living plants (that’s the green part). There are two types of green roofs: intensive and extensive. Intensive green roofs have soil depths of a foot or more and can support a large variety of plants and even trees. These types of roofs require heavy structural supports due to the added weight of soil, plants and irrigation. They require frequent maintenance and are typically found on commercial structures.

An extensive roof, on the other hand, requires only 2-5 inches of soil and is covered with a more limited array of plants. These roofs require minimal maintenance and may not require structural reinforcement depending on how your house is built, but check with your contractor or structural engineer first! These are the most common type of green roofs found on homes.

Green Roof Atop Chicago City Hall 

What Makes Green Roofs Environmentally Friendly?

There are numerous environmental benefits to a green roof.  First, a green roof provides extra insulation and energy efficiency for your home.  The vegetation and added soil layer on the roof keeps a home (or commercial building) cooler in the summer than does a standard roof. According to the EPA, on hot summer days, the surface temperature of a vegetated rooftop can be cooler than the air temperature, whereas the surface of a traditional rooftop can be up to 90°F (50°C) warmer.  In addition to cooling your building, they also serve to cool the area surrounding the building. This can reduce the “heat island” effect, which is when dense urban areas are hotter than surrounding areas of similar climate due to the heat generated by pavement, buildings and rooftops.

There are additional environmental benefits to green roofs:

  +  They collect and process rain water and keep large amounts of polluted runoff from heading into our rivers, lakes and oceans;
  +  They absorb air pollution, take polluted particulate out of the air, and sequester carbon;
  +  They can provide habitats for birds and other animals;
  +  They reduce noise pollution reaching the inside of the building;
  +  If you have access to your roof and it is flat, a green roof can provide a whole new “garden” for you to enjoy.

How Much Do Green Roofs Cost?

An extensive green roof can range from $8-25 per square foot depending on the kind of roof, system used, plants chosen, irrigation, etc.  An intensive roof (found on commercial buildings) is typically in the $25-50/square foot range.

How Can I Get a Green Roof?

You will need to find a designer and/or contractor to help you with the job. Greenroofs.com offers a directory of architects, contractors and consultants skilled in green roof implementations. A few companies across the country we would highlight are:

Central Coast Wilds in Santa Cruz, California
Intrinsic Landscaping, Inc. in Glenview, Illinois
Greener by Design in Pelham, New York
Landsculpture & Design in Houston, TX

You should also check out a couple of interesting companies that are now producing pre-fabricated green roof systems. GreenGrid  and LiveRoof create green roof systems that are series of preplanted modules made of recycled plastics that can easily be placed directly on a roof or other structure with sufficient structural capacity. Another company offering a similar type of application is called Green Roof Blocks.

If you are interested in learning how to install your own green roof, or in becoming a green roof contractor, definitely get to know the Green Roofs for Healthy Cities non-profit group. They teach classes on green roof techniques all across the US and Canada.

If you have done a green roof project and have any observations to share, please add a comment to this blog. We would all like to learn from you!

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